Climbed the South Face of Mt. Watkins with Nick. Definitely the toughest climb I've ever done. Spent two nights on the wall. 19 pitches, heinous approach and descent, got a quick sierra storm, and took some nice falls.
First ascent by Warren Harding, Yvon Chouinard, and Chuck Pratt over 5 days in 1964. They took 1.5 L/person/day. We took about 1.2 Gallons/person/day... and we were THIRSTY. Warren Harding was also superhuman.
Many prominent roofs, ledges, and crack systems aren't marked on the topo, but we always thought, "what would the first ascent party do here" and after a climbing for a few minutes, we'd usually find a bolt or some other indicator that we were on route... adventure climbing at it's best.
To hear about the first ascent, read Chuck Pratt's account here. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=637156
First ascent by Warren Harding, Yvon Chouinard, and Chuck Pratt over 5 days in 1964. They took 1.5 L/person/day. We took about 1.2 Gallons/person/day... and we were THIRSTY. Warren Harding was also superhuman.
Many prominent roofs, ledges, and crack systems aren't marked on the topo, but we always thought, "what would the first ascent party do here" and after a climbing for a few minutes, we'd usually find a bolt or some other indicator that we were on route... adventure climbing at it's best.
To hear about the first ascent, read Chuck Pratt's account here. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=637156
I was slowly watching the sun go down from my small stance at this belay... wondering if Nick would make it... and if I was going to be sleeping from a hanging belay that night.
Nick slowly making progress... (note: there are anchors at the top of pitch 5.. not marked on the topo).
My last view of sun on half dome...
Nick finally got to the anchors around 9:30. I jugged up the line, and by then it was quite dark. Definitely didn't want to lead the wandering 5.9 pitch that came next. So we called it a day.
Nick finally got to the anchors around 9:30. I jugged up the line, and by then it was quite dark. Definitely didn't want to lead the wandering 5.9 pitch that came next. So we called it a day.
Watkins Pinnacles with Half Dome during sunrise.
We slept at the belay on pitch 6. I don't think Nick slept much at all, but I have a superhuman ability to sleep anywhere. The ledge was slightly sloping, so I had weight on my harness the whole night, and wasn't quite big enough for one person to lay down on... let alone 2... and a haul bag.
We slept at the belay on pitch 6. I don't think Nick slept much at all, but I have a superhuman ability to sleep anywhere. The ledge was slightly sloping, so I had weight on my harness the whole night, and wasn't quite big enough for one person to lay down on... let alone 2... and a haul bag.
This was our bed for the night 1.
Cool rock features on the 7th pitch. (Note: I went straight up from the ledge on 6, and then traversed right, unlike the topo.)
Took us less than an hour to get up to Sheraton-Watkins ledge and haul our bag, eat breakfast and lament that we were not here last night. Oh well. I used my dry bag here too.
Good thing Nick brought his hammer and some pitons to open the can... (we didn't end up nailing anything)
Good thing Nick brought his hammer and some pitons to open the can... (we didn't end up nailing anything)
Pitch 9. Trying to get as many pitches in before the sun hit us.
So for 90% of the climb I wore my shorts and boxers. And plenty of sunscreen.
Sheraton - Watkins, "plush bivy for 3"... there's the bivy for one... and I was belaying from the bivy for 2 more... much nicer than last night's accommodations.
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