Climbed the South Face of Mt. Watkins with Nick. Definitely the toughest climb I've ever done. Spent two nights on the wall. 19 pitches, heinous approach and descent, got a quick sierra storm, and took some nice falls.
First ascent by Warren Harding, Yvon Chouinard, and Chuck Pratt over 5 days in 1964. They took 1.5 L/person/day. We took about 1.2 Gallons/person/day... and we were THIRSTY. Warren Harding was also superhuman.
Many prominent roofs, ledges, and crack systems aren't marked on the topo, but we always thought, "what would the first ascent party do here" and after a climbing for a few minutes, we'd usually find a bolt or some other indicator that we were on route... adventure climbing at it's best.
To hear about the first ascent, read Chuck Pratt's account here. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=637156
First ascent by Warren Harding, Yvon Chouinard, and Chuck Pratt over 5 days in 1964. They took 1.5 L/person/day. We took about 1.2 Gallons/person/day... and we were THIRSTY. Warren Harding was also superhuman.
Many prominent roofs, ledges, and crack systems aren't marked on the topo, but we always thought, "what would the first ascent party do here" and after a climbing for a few minutes, we'd usually find a bolt or some other indicator that we were on route... adventure climbing at it's best.
To hear about the first ascent, read Chuck Pratt's account here. http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=637156
Nick gearing up for 2 more aid pitches above.
I like this pic... Half Dome, the moon... too bad Nick is slightly out of focus.
Pitch 17. Supertopo description: rotten flare, no fun.
Nick concurs. There's a huge detached flake on the right side of the crack up higher... which is directly above the belay station. Had many conversations with myself at this station.
Nick concurs. There's a huge detached flake on the right side of the crack up higher... which is directly above the belay station. Had many conversations with myself at this station.
Looking up at the last 3 pitches. This was a hanging belay, so I had my umbrella out, used my etriers as a seat... etc.
Old "bong" on in the crack... I wonder if it's Chouinard's?
Looking up at the 10c crack on the 18th pitch. Definitely the best pitch of the climb. Would be a 5 star climb if this was at the base.
Killer hand and fist crack, very clean, but my hands would not listen to me at this point. I took a nice fall up higher, and ended up french freeing a section.
On the last pitch. Looking down at the whole climb as Nick jugs up. The Sheraton Watkins is to the left... kind of where my left foot is pointing towards.
That's a resilient tree.
Nick doing the honors to topout after spending close to 2 full days on the wall. This last pitch says it's a 5.7, but there is a bolt ladder section also.
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